Heading out into the desert felt a bit different this time. It may have been the familiarity having done so many times before, and by bus many years ago.
It may have had more to do with having the brand new perspective of more age and experience. Whatever it was, it had a distinctly fresh feel to it.
There were three other backpackers on the same bus. In the past, I'd have tried to make conversation with them. Now, I only wished to be alone and avoid all the cool Bohemian posturing.
Of the three, I did have a short chat with a young Mexican woman and her Italian husband who didn't seem to exude the usual backpacker/hipster attitudes. Can't recall the woman's name but Maria would be a safe guess. Her husband's name was Frederico and they seemed really excited to be getting back to Huiricuta. The other backpacker was from Belgium and was sporting an outrageously giant Mexican sombrero. He had a strong muscular face framed with primitively coarse sideburns. To be honest, I would have dug making images of that face with that ridiculous sombrero in muted color or perhaps black and white in the desert's last light. He appeared to be ignoring the rest of us though.
I learned there was a new local fellow renting adobe rooms and all the cool backpackers were staying there now. I'd always rented a room from the old man Don Tomas and for so many years now that I'd feel like I was betraying a friend if I stayed with the new guy Cervino. Besides, this meant I'd likely be alone without risk of having to listen to bongo playing all night.
Don Tomas seemed pleased to once again hand me room keys. He seemed a bit sad to inform me that all of his rooms were free, blaming it on the economy.
All situated with a few days worth of drinking water, goat local goat cheese, candles, etc. The only nuisance thus far was a particularly scrawny cat who meowed with so much demand that I was forced to share my goat cheese with her. As I tried to chase her out of my room at night, she batted my feet with her little paws in such a sassy way that I decided perhaps we could share each other's warmth as long as she behaved.
A old friend in Wadley told me her name is Pacha Mai and that there's something wrong with her ever since she had a sick litter and ate all of the kittens. He said she'd been kinda boney ever since then despite being fed by several in the town. Her attitude and refusal to give up on life struck a chord with me so for the duration I decided we could be buddies.
A couple of days of getting into the desert rhythm and I was ready to hike out to see if the peace sign was still there and revisit Señor Mescalito. Something has changed in my perspective regarding this life and I was curious if communing would either shake me back into sync with my prior perspective, or if I could experience something new.
Pleased to report that the peace sign is in fine shape with only a few stones slightly kicked out of place. Likely by goats and or goat herder donkeys. There was a little growth through some of the stones as well, but in a matter of minutes I had it looking just as I'd left it in 2009.
Seems that my magic number is 3. That quantity of cactus seems to yield the best result with almost no ill feeling at all.
About an hour into it, a goat herder approached me on his burro. It was once again my old friend Evolio Martinez. Evidently I had his name wrong at Evuli. He remembered me and we had a short chat while he helped me find white stones for the inner lines of the peace sign.
He wanted to know if I had brought a print of him from the photos I made in 2009. Since I didn't expect to see him again, I didn't bring a print but promised to the next time.
As we spoke, I mentioned something about the global economy being down, and other world concerns. He didn't know what an "economy" was and he still didn't know what the internet is. I found that strangely refreshing.
This time it was as strong as ever, but felt more like I was learning things I've already known. As if the sort of clarified awakening I've been feeling lately was actually more satisfying and deeper than what Mescalito showed me. The following 3 dances over the next week proved to be more of the same.
The last time I took the "medicine" it was with a small group of travelers I met including the Mexican woman and her Italian boyfriend. There was also a fellow from Panama via Canada and his Colombian girlfriend. There was also an Israeli chap with dreadlocks who was the sort I mentioned before, ie. only really wanting to hang with other bohemians wearing the typical hippy garb. Worked for me.
I was invited to take part in a "Temescal" sweat lodge in the desert lead by a young mother of Navajo descent. She spoke excellent English as well and had these amazing blue eyes that contrasted with her dark skin beautifully.
When the ceremony was over, she and I chatted by the fire under the full moon for a good while. As I spoke of recent strange events in my life including the perpetual deja-vu or intuition in Tepoztlan, she informed me that this is the place where shamen and or those who are touched are chosen. She mentioned something about a name having something to do with hail stones. And, she said the lightning I experienced coming down all around me in the Arizona desert outside of Bisbee was also a clear sign.
She said that she too had experienced what I had, but that she refused the gifts because she felt she was too young and wanted to be a mom and eventually a grandmother. Her name is Lisette and she hopes to get the calling once again now that she's ready. I told her I felt she was already walking in the footsteps of her destiny and that her gifts never really left her at all.
I may return to chat with Lisette more if the path leads back by Wadley on my way home. And to see how my old friend Mauricio's family is doing. He and his wife are expecting their 2nd child to join their absolutely beautiful little girl. Oh, and if I do, I'll be sure to grab a fresh can of tuna fish for my little Pasha Mai friend.
I arrived in Mexico City late yesterday afternoon. The bus service in Mexico was very good as I recall from about 7 or 8 years ago, but it's even better now. The U.S. could likely take some lessons from Mexico in mass transit and it looks like there are more eco-friendly vehicles in the city. There are eco-bikes you rent from an unmanned vending rack and many more covered pedi-cabs than I remember. The air is still smoggy, but you can definitely tell theirs an strong effort being made.
Another change in myself I noticed was that when the movie started playing on the bus and I saw that it was a Christmas movie still, it didn't bother me at all. In the past I would have been annoyed and tuned it out, but this time I just watched it and got real joy out of just any odd thing that may or may not happen. Just being and staying amazed with the world just happening all around and flowing right along with it.
Still no plan at all, but I sense the winds blowing me toward Coatepec and Veracruz next. Will see where intuition funnels me. So far, it appears to be working out smoothly. Will go with it while it lasts, but when it eventually turns more challenging I will remember the world is just continuing to happen in every quality of sensational color, texture and sound.
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